Cambodia

Cambodia is one of those countries that truly tugs at your heart strings. For the first time on our trip, I really feel like I've been in a third world country. Laos is one of the poorest countries in the world but yet it didn't feel as third world in comparison to Cambodia- even for the remote Laos regions we visited.

Extreme poverty is everywhere; more than half of Khmer people don't have access to sanitation or clean water. We saw many families living on streets and begging for food. Children suffer from malnutrition and inadequate immunizations against polio, measles, and diphtheria. Fifty percent of the population is 18 and under and yet there is no free education and school is not compulsory. Therefore, since ninety percent of the population is considered poor, children don't go to school and instead resort to begging and becoming street kids to make money for the family. Cambodia does a hard sell as more and more tourists start to visit the country. You're often bombarded with children running at you to buy their postcards, t-shirts, scarves... they need the money and if they don't sell, they don't eat.

Corruption is a way a life and it's unbelievably rampant in Cambodia; It's hard to believe there are Khmer people driving around in Bentleys and Lexus SUVs when there is so much poverty and devastation in their country. Money talks.

The political situation is very uncertain; Can you believe that high ranking members of Pol Pot's military and government are still in high command in today's government? And, the current royal family had strong relations with Pol Pot?!? Needless to say, while in Cambodia, I got the impression there is still a sense of fear and uncertainty. National elections are being held this year and they already know who's going to win.

Landmines and UXOs are a major issue of Cambodia; There are more than 6 million still in existence and in 2005, nearly 900 causalities. Needless to say, you're repeatedly told to, "stay on the path" when visiting temples or the countryside.

But you have to remember, Cambodia is country starting to heal. Following the years of war and genocide of Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge, and a long period of civil and political instability, Cambodia is only now starting to recover. And despite it's horrible, recent past, the Khmer people are resilient and just so warm and charming. They're happy to be alive and definitely live for the here and now. But as a country trying to rebuild, you can't escape the begging culture or the maimed victims of the war and land mines. It breaks your heart to say no as street children, families and disabled victims beg for money and follow you down the street desperately pleading for your money. It's just so hard to say, "no, I'm sorry." A few dollars to each beggar isn't going to help long term recovery. So, in Cambodia and along our entire trip, we have visited social organisation that help train street children for a good job and only shop for souvenirs at NGO's and local handicraft shops that go directly to social improvement programs. This way, the money goes back to the local economy and hopefully creates long term change for the better.

I feel very lucky to have visited Cambodia especially since the country has only recently opened its borders to tourists. I've learned the most I've ever known about its horrific past by visiting an S21 prison, the killing fields and hearing first hand history from the locals' personal stories of survival during Pol Pot's regime. And on a happier note, I got to experience the splendor of the ancient Khmer temples. Angkor Wat and Bayon (the faces) were some of our favourites. They are absolutely remarkable and so awe-inspiring.

Cambodia is slowly on its way to recovery and though the process will take many years, I hope the country finds long term stability, prosperity and peace. I also hope it continues to celebrate it's ancient culture and that many other tourists get to experience the wonders and beauty of Cambodia. The people are truly warm, kind and caring. I promise, you won't be disappointed if you visit Cambodia.